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Many people think of financing in terms of vehicle purchasing. In a typical financing plan, buyers can spread out payments over a period spanning 24 to 36 months. Fortunately these days, buyers who wish to upgrade their vehicles can also get financing on aftermarket parts. Aftermarket parts are designed to add more practicality and utility to trucks, cars, and SUVs. These parts range from performance parts, work parts such as tow hooks and shackles, off roading gear, or general protection of truck bumpers, radiators, and grille. With financing, you will not have to shell out all money at once, and the protection can help drivers save on the costs of repairs in the long run.

Bill Me Later

Bill Me Later is one of the most effective ways to get financing for aftermarket parts. Bill Me Later is a secured financing company in partnership with PayPal. When looking for financing for aftermarket parts, simply ask if the store will let you check out online with Bill Me Later. This payment program offers low financing and relatively easy credit approval. Purchasing with Bill Me Later can be completed in one of two ways.

If you do not have a PayPal account, you will need to sign up for PayPal first. Choose to checkout with PayPal when you are making your purchase. Create a PayPal account and select Bill Me Later as an option. You will be asked to fill out a short form and then wait for approval. This type of approval is usually instant and your purchase process is complete. If for whatever reason your application is not approved, you will simply be re-directed to your site and can choose other payment options.

If you already have a PayPal account, you can simply sign in to PayPal from a store checkout page and pick Bill Me Later as your checkout option. You will be asked to fill out the short form and wait for their approval. If the application is approved, then your purchase is complete. If not, then you will have to pay through PayPal the standard way.

Bill Me Later is currently a very popular option for financing due to customer choice such as offering interest free payments if the customer pays off balance in six months. Alternatively, the customer can chose to make no payments for 90 days, and then follow up with a low interest rate.

Other Financing Options

Other financing options also exist for getting the right aftermarket parts for vehicles. Many companies offer coupon codes for purchasing bulk orders. It is advisable to call companies ahead to arrange discount for bulk orders. Other financing options that are available include student discounts, military discounts, and layaway plans. These typically vary by company and shoppers can normally obtain these rates by contacting a representative.

Conclusion

While most people use financing plans to pay off their vehicles, few people realize that they can get financing on aftermarket parts to improve their vehicles over time. Whether a car owner needs performance parts, work parts, or protection from damage, getting financing for these parts can be simple with today’s fast and efficient options.

Source by Hank Phillips

It’s is important to do some research and shop around if you are looking to buy a used BMW 3 Series. The BMW 3 Series has a combination of style, class, drivability and reliability. It is the reliability that can make the car a particularly good choice for a used vehicle. Having said this you should still do your homework to ensure you get a quality car for your money. So, what are the pros and cons of used BMW 3 Series?

The 3 series is definitely an enjoyable car to drive and also one of the best in its class. Road bumps and uneven surfaces can be noticed at slow speeds but the suspension is still of a good standard. This car is excellent for motorway driving as it is so quiet. Whilst driving on motorways you will hardly hear a thing from the road or suspension. Also, wind noise is only a slight problem whilst driving at high speeds.

In the vehicle there are plenty of adjustments to be made with regards to seating and the steering wheel. This increases the comfort factor. Controls are simple to use but higher spec models get the more complicated iDrive rotary control. The boot is one of the largest in its class and the back seats are comfortable unless you are over six feet tall, in which case the legroom will feel rather narrow.

From the range of BMW 3 Series every model comes with a powerful, silky engine. Basic models will come with air conditioning, a CD player and electric windows. You will find that main dealers have the best choice but if you are looking for a bargain a private seller may be a better choice.

The 3 Series can be an expensive car to run. You may have a shock when you see the costs for servicing and repairs. BMW dealers have some of the most expensive labour charges. The engines are fairly fuel efficient compared to its rivals. Insurance costs can be high if you are looking for a faster model and the crime rate tends to be high where you live.

There are some things to look at for if thinking about buying a used 3 Series. Side lamps can become lose from the bodywork and damage the wings. Make sure they are secure. A common fault with the 3 Series is with the heater blower fan. The switch often breaks but many dealers will repair it for free. The 3 Series is popular target for car thieves so it may be worth investing in a tracker and bumping up the security.

In many respects the BMW 3 Series is an ideal purchase if you are looking for a used car. It runs well, looks great and holds its value. It is built superbly and is therefore reliable. There are a few faults to look out for though and also consider the running costs can be high. Bare in mind the pros and cons of a used BMW 3.

Source by Nick Willard

One of the best pieces of advice I was ever given in regards to buying a classic muscle car was to invest in high quality resource materials so I could crack the code on Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN) to make sure that I was not getting scammed.

The best way to find a high quality book is to find what the experts are using. With the internet, you can type a subject like Camaro restoration book into the Amazon search box. You can also Google it and follow the links, which will take you to various forums and websites. Chevrolet by the Numbers, by Alvin Colvin, is the best book I have ever found for Chevrolet part numbers, Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN), trim tags, and model ID. The book is an easy read, with chapters designated to the different components. Again, I used this process in my quest to purchase a rare Camaro. Just Google the car you are looking for and follow the links. The best resources will be obvious.

Here is a list of objects you will need when decoding your car.

Small flashlight, notebook, resource or reference book, mechanics mirror, pen or pencil, cordless or corded droplight, floor jack and jack-stands, coveralls, rags, brass wire brush, brake cleaner, yellow or white colored grease pencil, digital camera or camcorder.

If you are continuing to read this information, I can only surmise that buying a classic muscle car with the proper numbers and matching parts is important to you! Good! It should be! If this is true, I will walk you through an example of decoding a car. This will give you an idea of what it takes to properly decode a car.

Be prepared to take your time. I also discovered a sure fire way to determine who your true friends are. Ask them to go along to help you decode a car! Having an extra body can sometimes cut your time in half. I also recommend finding an expert or consultant on your car, and buying a couple of hours their time, especially if you are looking to purchase a special model classic car. It’s been my experience that an extra set of eyes can only help the cause. I found an expert through one of my reference books. Prior to me going to look at my current car, I spent about an hour talking with him, and making a list of things I should be looking for. (Of course, if you want someone to handle the process from A to Z, services are available. This is a great option if you are buying the car from remote.)

The Process

Before I arrived the owner told me the car was basically a roller project, meaning the engine and transmission were removed from the car. The engine, transmission and other components were placed in a pile where it would be easy to look at the numbers. The owner also claimed it was a limited edition Camaro, yet he didn’t have any paperwork like an original order invoice, or a protect o plate (a special metal plate shaped like a credit card that is used for warranty and repair services). This type of paperwork trail eliminates the need for further documentation. If you do not have this type of paperwork, then follow along. When I arrived at the location where the car was stored, the first thing I did was to check the VIN number. The VIN number is probably the most important number on a car. If you do not know how to decode a VIN on a particular Chevrolet, you will be unable to verify other components or numbers. What is nice about the book is it actually walks you through the whole decoding process, including providing the specific numbers location. As a sidebar, any good resource book on your particular make and model car will outline the way to decode your car, including number locations and decoding info. On 1968 and 1969 Camaros, the VIN number is located on the top of the dash board, on the drivers side. The number is visible through the windshield. I wiped the dirt and dust off of the VIN tag, and copied the numbers into my notebook.

VIN number

I was able to determine that my car was originally a V8, it was a 2 door sport coupe, made in 1969, assembled in Norwood Ohio, and it was the 662,8XXrd car built at that plant in that year.

Trim tag.

In 1969, all Camaro trim tags were located in the engine compartment, riveted on the upper left hand corner of the firewall. I took my rag and cleaned all of the dust and gunk off of the trim tag. Since the numbers were not that clear, I recleaned the trim tag, and removed the rest of the gunk. I used my flashlight to illuminate the numbers, and then copied the numbers into my notebook. Some of the trim tag numbers matched up with the VIN tag numbers, which was a good sign. The remaining numbers indicated that my car body was number 353,XXX to come down this plant’s assembly line. The interior was originally a standard black interior, and the car was built in the first week of June, 1969. The car was originally painted dusk blue and it was equipped with a spoiler package and a chrome trim package. So far everything was lining up. The reason for all of this detail is to illustrate how you can confirm that what you think you are buying is exactly what you are getting.

Before I move on, I want to share how this is relevant. A husband and wife from my car club went to look at a Chevelle. The car was advertised as a Super Sport. During the inspection process, and referencing the above book, they uncovered a number of inconsistencies. According to the numbers, the car had originally started out as a plain Jane 6 cylinder car. The car was now painted a different color, had a different color interior and a different engine. You get the picture. Over the years, one (or more) of the previous owners modified the car and tried to make it into a Super Sport. The point is it may have not been done maliciously, but the car still did not start out as a true Super Sport. And having the Super Sport option obviously raises the value of the car.

Engine code identification.

The engine is stamped in (2) places on a 69 Camaro. One is on the right front engine pad. The other location is on the rough casting portion on the rear of the engine, just above the oil filter. Again I wiped off the areas I just described with brake cleaner sprayed on a rag. You need to have a clean surface, and normally brake cleaner will do the trick. The front engine pad numbers appeared to have been restamped at one time, maybe after the engine block was decked (Decking in a machine process to check the flatness of the block deck for irregularities that cause compression and water leaks.) The tricky part is reading the numbers on the area above the oil filter. I recommend a really bright light and a magnifying glass. If that doesn’t do it, then I suggest taking a little muriatic acid an applying it to the numbers. This should make the numbers readable. The reason this number is sometimes hard to decipher is because these engines were hand stamped, and punched onto a rough surface. According to the numbers, I determined the engine was a 425 horsepower high performance engine, with a 4 speed manual transmission. The last numbers also corresponded with the last numbers in my VIN, which meant this was the original engine to this car. The numbers told me the engine was assembled June 14, which fell in line with the build date. The engine block part number that is cast into the rear of the block was cleaned with a rag and brake cleaner as well. The block part number indicated ahigh performance block used for Camaros. Another piece of the puzzle confirmed.

Rear axle identification.

The numbers on a Camaro rear axle are stamped on the top of the right axle tube. My experience has been that this area is normally pretty crusty and rusty. And this rear axle was no exception. After considerable wire brushing, I wiped the area clean with brake cleaner. Laying on my back, I shone the light on the area, while holding a mirror. It still wasn’t clear enough for me to read accurately. I then took my grease pencil, and ran it over the numbers. The purpose of the grease pencil is to provide contrast with the metal of the axle tube. When I put the mirror back over the area, I was rewarded with a very sharp image of the part numbers, which I copied into my notebook. According to the numbers, this rear axle assembly had a 4.10:1 gear ratio, limited slip. The axle was assembled June 16, 1969. Are you seeing a pattern starting to appear here? The axle numbers also indicated the axle to be original to the car based on the dates codes referencing June 1969 build date. I took the same approach with the other parts.

Here are my findings. The cylinder heads, intake manifold, carburetor, and transmission were the correct part numbers for the car. However none of these parts were date coded to the car. One of the heads was manufactured in April 1968, the other head was manufactured in February of 1969. The transmission was manufactured Jan 24th 1969. The reason I know all of these parts are not correctly date coded to the car is I decoded each one, by researching the part numbers, and date codes. All of this information is important, because not only did it verify what the owner had told me, and it also showed that the other parts were in line with the build date. Thereby providing further confirmation of what I was looking at. During my investigating, I took pictures with a digital camera of all of the parts and part numbers, as best as i could. I spent about 30 minutes walking around the car with a video camera and editorializing what I was taking footage of. I also took the list of things the Camaro expert had told me about and checked them off one by one. Later in the week I called the Camaro expert and shared my findings. I reviewed all of my research, including going over the individual part numbers, and the “things to look for” checklist. By the end of the phone call, I was 99 percent positive that this Camaro was what it was being advertised as.

The last thing I did was to have the car documented and certified by a Certified Camaro appraiser.

GM also stamped hidden VIN numbers in (2) different places on the car. The reason for the hidden VIN numbers was to add another step in preventing and identifying a stolen car. Because it is fairly easy to remove and swap out the VIN tag on the dash, the hidden VIN’s provided a back-up system of check and balances. For example, someone could possibly swap out a VIN tag, but if they didn’t know about the Hidden VIN numbers, a person in the know could easily identify the numbers not matching up. Because the car was bought a roller project, it was easy to check these hidden VIN’s, against the VIN tag on the dash. I wanted the appraiser to check them personally, and he confirmed the numbers as matching and authentic. In other words the certificate authenticates the car. Many appraisers will also supply you with a report on their findings. The nice thing about having a car certified is this type of paperwork is normally viewed as iron clad documentation. It normally raises the value of the car, because of the authenticity certificate. And if you ever go to sell the car, now you have documentation to provide the seller that the car is a real (Super Sport, Rally Sport, Z/28, etc. You fill in the blank)

Some people may wonder why would anyone go through all of this work.

However, keep in mind that many of these muscle cars are 20 plus years old and have gone through numerous owners and modifications. All of that history is prior to it being restored back to showroom original condition. In other words, many parts are bolt on and interchangeable from other models and different years. So just because the parts look ok, doesn’t mean that they even belong on the car. In the above example about the couple and the Chevelle, the car was priced as a Super Sport, yet the trim tag and other numbers reflected a totally different story. Even though the car was beautifully restored, it was really nothing more than a modified 6 cylinder, base model Chevelle that someone converted over to a V-8 at some time in it’s life. Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with modifying a car to an individual owners taste. The issue is when the car is sold and the seller forgets to mention (consciously or unconsciously) and inform the new owner of the modifications. Our Chevelle couple would have gladly paid the asking price if the car was a true Super Sport. But, because they knew how to decode the car, they were able to save themselves a lot of time, money and aggravation. At the time the difference between a plain Jane Chevelle and a real Super Sport was over $10,000. Just to throw some numbers out there, let’s be conservative and say it takes 6 hours of research to decode a car. Using our $10,000 figure, that equates to approximately $1,600 an hour. Not a bad return on your time investment. As muscle and classic cars have become more popular, I have seen many cases where just for the fun of it, an owner will start to do research on a car he or she owns.

Discovering your car isn’t really what you thought you purchased can really knock the wind out of you. By investing a small amount of money, and time, in researching and decoding your prospective muscle car purchase you can sleep at night knowing that you received the value you paid for. Anyone else interested in investing a couple of hours for peace of mind when purchasing a classic or muscle car???

Source by Timothy Leary

Chances are you have never heard the term curb stoner. However, you might have met one and not even known it. A curb stoner is a “professional” used car seller who poses as a private individual selling his or her own car. You can find curb stoner’s cars everywhere; parking lots, people’s front yard, parked in a parking lot with a for sale sign on it. These types are especially menacing to the average car buyer.

Not to say that buying a car from an individual is bad. However when you run into people who are posing to be something that they are not (telling you that they are selling their personal car when it is just a car that they bought at auction), that is when the problems begin.

There are two surefire ways to beat the curb stoners at their own game. First make sure that you get a CarFax report on the car before you even think about giving them your money. This is simple and costs about $30. It will be the best $30 that you will spend for this purchase. Simply go to the CarFax website and enter the car’s VIN (Vehicle Identification Number). You will receive a report that will tell about the odometer history, any wrecks or title abnormalities and a host of information about the car that you are looking to buy. You will have to ask the seller to give you the VIN. A sure sign that there might be something fishy with the seller is if they refuse to let you have the VIN number. At that point, I would just walk away.

Second, make sure that when you are buying a car from an individual (or used car from a dealer for that matter) you have it checked out by a certified mechanic. Like the CarFax report, it will be the best money that you could spend. There might be hidden problems that will not show themselves for several months after you bought the car.

As with all used car purchases, just be aware of any red flags that pop-up along the way. And just remember you can always say, “no I don’t want to buy the car”.

Source by Jeff McKinstry

An electrical problem that doesn’t let your car start and leaves you stuck in a parking lot or some place away from the fix that’s needed is an unwanted problem we all do our best to avoid. So what can you do to lessen the possibility of a possible unwanted situation that involves an electrical system crash in your vehicle?

First of all make sure you spend double the money on a good car battery. A lead acid battery can cost between $75 to $125 dollars. The only reason liquid lead acid batteries are the most commonplace is liquid lead acid batteries were first developed in 1859 and they are the least expensive in today’s world of automotive engine starting sources. In 1971 the sealed liquid lead acid battery was created that made it maintenance friendly.

VRLA (valve regulated lead acid) batteries include gel and absorbed glass mate which are not liquid. Gel batteries are as the name applies which is a “Gel”. AGM batteries are silicate glass fibers mixed with boron and formed into a mat that holds the electrolyte. Non liquid gel batteries were created in the late 1920’s and lead to the creation of the “Absorbed Glass Mat” batteries in 1957. The AGM (absorbed glass mat) battery was put into production in 1972 but mostly used for military applications and non vehicle applications like boats, motor homes, motorcycles and electronics. Nowadays you see more AGM batteries becoming available for use in production cars. AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries can cost from $160 to $250 but have more advantages over liquid lead acid batteries.

AGM batteries are basically used in applications where the use of the vehicle is only used now and again as in boats and recreational vehicles. The non use discharge rate is much lower in non use applications than liquid lead acid batteries. The charge rate is much faster also. Some automotive manufacturers are installing AGM batteries as their standard new car power source because of today’s higher vehicle power consumption. BMW right now is known to be the first to install AGM batteries in their 2007 models because of computer functions and braking.

AGM batteries are much better than liquid lead acid batteries but the downside of AGM batteries is you don’t overcharge them. They will charge faster with a normal output alternator up to 14.5 volts and a high output alternator is not needed. When an AGM battery is used in a non use vehicle a solar panel is recommended with a trickle charge. AGM batteries will go bad if charged over 14.5 volts. Most problems with charging AGM’s are in sports vehicles due to the rough environment they are used in. Toss away your old plug in garage battery charger and get a new one that maintains “Voltage” instead of amps. An AGM battery charger will sense a very low voltage in the battery and will start the recharge whereas an old charger does not sense low voltage and will not charge the battery.

These batteries are used in military vehicles that sit in storage for many years and start up after years in storage with no problem. I’ve read stories online where people have left their AGM batteries sitting in their garage for many years and they have retained their full charge. I use AGM batteries in my vehicles and disconnect the negative cable in the one that I don’t use that often anymore and it starts right up when I run the engine occasionally. I’ve read complaints about the AGM failing often but that’s only because of bad practices with them or using them in systems where the charging exceeds the recommended level. You can leave these batteries sitting for long periods of time without charging them but it’s recommended that a solar panel with an extremely low trickle charge be used when not in use. Again I will say from my own experiences is to disconnect the negative cable to the battery when not in use.

The AGM vs Gel and the wet cell? The AGM has thicker plates that tend to not warp that easily during deep discharges and resist sulfur buildup’s that destroy a wet cell battery. Wet cell batteries usually go bad after 4 years if they make it that length of time. The life expectancy of the AGM battery can be up to 10 years if not overcharged. Gel cell batteries are great for sports vehicles but tend to charge slower.

The Winner Is, “Absorbed Glass Mat” if you learn how to take care of them properly.

Source by Jim Allan

If you are looking to buy, replace or even upgrade your headlight bulbs there seems to be an immense amount of advice available. Typically the amount of information that is passed down through word of mouth can be confusing and so listed below are some of these most commonly asked questions and answers.

Should I buy and replace headlight bulbs in pairs?

Yes. This makes good common sense advice for two reasons. Firstly if one of your bulbs has blown it is very likely that the other one will go fairly soon, so if you have taken the effort of changing one bulb you might as well change the other whilst your at it, and then you will not have to repeat the process for a considerable time.

The other reason for changing car bulbs in pairs is because as a bulb gets towards the end of its life its light performance is not at its optimum level and so installing one brand new headlight bulb whilst leaving the other old bulb in place will cause a light imbalance, meaning you are not getting the best light performance from your headlight bulbs.

Can I touch the glass when changing the headlight bulbs?

No. No matter how clean your hands are, when you touch the glass you will leave a residue of some of your skins natural oils. When the headlight bulb is illuminated this oil creates a hot spot on the glass and can lead to the bulb failing much earlier than expected.

Top car bulb manufacturers now use toughened quartz glass in their bulbs and so this hotspot issue is not such a factor as it used to be. However it is still good practice to wear latex gloves when handling headlight bulbs to ensure you get the best service life from them.

My car has plastic headlight lenses, does it matter which headlight bulbs I buy?

Yes. If you install headlight bulbs that do not have special UV filtered glass it will very quickly, discolour and eventually damage the plastic lenses. Therefore if you do have plastic lenses on your vehicle make sure the headlight bulbs you buy have special UV cut glass, this will normally be labeled clearly on the packaging.

If I want brighter headlights on the road can I fit high wattage headlight bulbs?

No. Whilst high wattage headlight bulbs can be over twice as bright as standard bulbs, they are not legal on public roads. This is because the incredible bright light they produce can easily temporarily blind on coming drivers.

If you are looking to improve your headlights, you should install upgrade headlight xenon bulbs, these are identical to your existing bulbs but are filled with xenon gas and so emit up to 90% more light, and best of all they are completely road legal.

Is the owner’s manual the best way to find out what headlight auto bulbs are fitted to my vehicles?

Yes and No. Normally the owner’s manual will give you accurate information about which type of bulbs you have fitted to your vehicle and their location. However during a production run, vehicle manufacturers do sometimes change the specification, design or parts supplier and so the subsequent bulbs used may differ from the original manual.

Therefore the best way to find out which type of bulbs have been fitted to your vehicle is to remove them and check it visually. Normally the bulb type is printed on the bulbs base.

Buying and replacing your headlight bulbs should normally be a straightforward job, however as is the case with most technical items, being armed with the right information will help you make the decision easier. Fitting the right headlight bulbs, correctly will not only save you money in the long run, but also make night driving safer and less stressful.

Source by Jo Alexander

Since the very conception of the automobile, engineers and designers have been searching for was to make them more efficient and save on fuel consumption. Petrol fuels the majority of vehicles and diesel fuel is used in heavier automotive equipment. The internal combustion engine is considered to be a major if not the biggest source of environmental pollution and the cost of fuel is increasing every day.

With a constant rise in fuel costs and the environmental concerns regarding automobiles, vehicle engineers have had to develop more economical and environmentally safer alternatives to the internal combustion engine that powers most cars. This has led to the birth of the hybrid automobile. These hybrid automobiles offer a number of benefits. The hybrid automobile is a car that is powered by both an electric motor and a gasoline engine. Compared to non hybrid vehicles, the hybrid car saves on the cost of fuel by being more fuel efficient and has a lower rate of fuel consumption.

Hybrid cars operate on a dual mode where the electric motor, powered by batteries, takes over once the gasoline engine has gotten the vehicle up to speed. Braking and deceleration generates energy that is used to charge the electric motor’s batteries. This system allows the hybrid car to provide better fuel efficiency. This also means that the engine of a hybrid vehicle is shut the moment the car is stopped. Considered the biggest advantage to the hybrid car is the reduction of environmental pollution due to fewer emissions of carbon dioxide and other harmful gases in to our atmosphere. Automobile manufactures such as Honda, Toyota, and Ford have already introduced hybrid car models to the commercial market and several others are in development.

Currently there are two types of hybrid vehicles on the market. The first is the “Series” hybrid. A battery powered electric motor powers the Series hybrid car. It also has a gasoline powered engine but it does not singularly power the vehicle. The gasoline engine powers a generator which is used in turn to charge the batteries of the electric motor. The electric motor is left on during the vehicles entire operation however the gasoline engine can be switched on or off depending on the needs of the vehicle. This type of hybrid automobile provides better mileage in city traffic.

The second type of hybrid vehicle on the market is called the “Parallel” hybrid. The Parallel hybrid car, like the Series type, has a gasoline engine and an electric motor. The electric motor and the electric motor can both be used to turn the transmission and power the vehicle. The major difference between the two types of hybrid cars is that the Parallel hybrid uses its electric motor to boost the vehicles power when required to increase the car’s speed. The Parallel hybrid car is considered better suited for the open highway.

Hybrid automobiles provide several benefits due to some very unique features. The construction of the hybrid vehicle uses more lightweight materials than traditional automobile. This saves energy by using less to propel the hybrid car. Hybrid cars also increase energy efficiency because of their more aerodynamic shapes. Tires used by hybrid vehicles run on a higher pressure and are made of a more rigid material than general car tires. The higher pressure helps to increase the vehicles gas mileage per gallon of gasoline used. The overall efficiency of the vehicle is increased by these tires because they reduce friction on road surfaces and provided a grip. The braking system provided an energy transfer from the electric motor to the vehicles batteries when ever the brakes are applied. The overall gas mileage of a hybrid varies from model to model. The EPA test numbers report that the Lexus RX400h receives 31 MPG in the city and 27 MPG the highway while the Honda Insight receives 61 MPG in the city and 68 MPG on the highway.

In conclusion, the future of automobiles is currently the hybrid car and purchasing a hybrid vehicle will not only save you money but will also allow you to take responsibility and do you part in creating a safer, cleaner and greener environment.

Source by Christine Bettridge

Glass coating is an inorganic material made of a Silica or a Quartz-Silane-based compound. It is used to protect the painted surfaces of car bodies. It is less likely to stain. Unlike traditional wax, its luster and protection can be long-lasting once it is applied. This is because they do not contain materials that oxidize (bind with oxygen). Oxidation weakens the original protection and shine of many car products, thus rendering the car surface prone to damage. It is easy to maintain, provides clean, shiny surfaces and long-lasting protection.

What is the difference between coating and wax?

The main component of wax is carnauba wax oil, which is extracted from palm trees. In recent years, some waxes have added petroleum. Higher quality waxes contain more carnauba oil. Carnauba wax is oil based, so it has water-repellent characteristics and can obscure scratches. However, there are also disadvantages. Waxes can easily become dirty because oil has a high viscosity (thick and sticky). This means dirt can stick to it. Also, wax can easily melt and deteriorate because it is sensitive to heat. Sunshine or engine heat can promote deterioration and cause wax to melt off the car’s surface. Wax can also break down in the rain or when the car is washed.

On the other hand, coating has a chemical composition of silicon, silica, fluorine and titanium. These molecules form a film coating that penetrates between the molecules of the car’s painted surface, creating a very powerful protective layer. Resistant to dirt, heat and rain, coating’s protection and shine will last over a longer period than wax.

There are various kinds of coatings that range in application complexity from simple, which any consumer can apply, to products for professional use only.

During its application, if the car’s surface is dirty and rough, materials will not adhere to car body paint, so surface preparation before application is important.

Types of Glass Coatings

Glass-based coatings can be broadly divided into two categories: quartz-silane based coatings and silica-based coatings.

The quartz-silane-based glass coating, also known as “completely cured glass film type” achieves very high gloss and strong durability. It protects the car body by creating a cured coating of silica on the car’s surface. However, it takes about three weeks for the coating to be fully cured, which is a drawback. It is also expensive because it takes a long time for the product to be formulated.

The silica-based glass coating, also known as “glass fiber type “, also makes a film, coating the surface of the car body. It is fixed to a silicon polymer molecule. It is an easy formulation and, therefore, is costs less to produce. However, its durability and water repellency is inferior compared to the quartz-silane-based.

In addition, some of the fluorine-based coatings, such as Teflon, are used to coat car bodies. They are excellent in durability. However, they are inferior compared to glass coatings and more expensive to formulate. As a result, glass coatings are on the cutting edge of technology’s focus of exploration.

A Glass Coating Hybrid

Currently, there is debate about whether hydrophilic (attracts water) products are more effective than hydrophobic (repels water) products for car care. Glass is hydrophilic. The new types of glass coatings are hybrids, adding a silicone resin layer to the existing glass layer to change the hydrophilic trait of glass to hydrophobic, thus creating a strong water repellant product.

Source by Keiichi Suzuki

It is a very common occurrence. We see then every day. Its like a disease – yellow, cloudy headlight lenses in drastic need of repair. I even saw them on cars at the local carwash. It befuddled me that these people would take such great care – washing, vacuuming the interior, removing the floor mats and even hand drying their cars, but they still had those yellowed, cloudy headlights. Its not just a problem on old, very used cars. It is prevalent on 2 – 3 year old cars also. It doesn’t matter if it is a Dodge, Ford, Mercedes, or a Porsche.

When questioned, most said they couldn’t afford, or didn’t want to pay the high prices of replacements from their local auto dealer. The average price for a pair of replacement plastic headlights at local auto dealerships was around $450 – that didn’t even include installation and alignment (that would be another $60-120). After market headlights do exist, but have received mixed reviews, and the savings aren’t that great, quality and fit is lagging, and then you still had to have them installed and aligned. And for what so you can do it again in another year or two?

There is another solution, there are headlight repair, cleaner and restorer kits available for under $30 (look up headlight cleaner and/or headlight restorer on Google), much less expensive than replacement lenses, and they work!

Plastic headlight lenses are the norm in the automotive industry now – every car has them. Some have fancy names like plexan and Lexan, but they all have the same problems. The sun, acid rain, harsh weather conditions, chemicals (brake fluid, power steering fluid, hot radiator fluids, hot water, harsh cleaners, etc…) will all cause the plastic lenses to degrade and weaken quickly. Some manufacturers have gone to including a protective film on the lenses. Regardless, they are all susceptible to this weakening and yellowing over time.

With these headlight repair, cleaner and restorer kits even junk yard car lenses have been repaired and restored to brand new (as evidenced on some websites). These same lenses used to be discarded and now have become new profit centers for salvage yards. The treatments are similarly applied to the exterior of the headlight lens where the damage is worst and it doesn’t take a mechanic to repair it.

These kits can easily be found under headlight cleaner and headlight restorer on Google. So now you know there is a very economic solution to the problem of yellow, cloudy, worn headlights – repair, clean and restore them to new again. There’s no excuse now to not have sparkling clean headlights. Car dealerships have been using these headlight repair, cleaner and restorer on their cars and you can too.

Source by David Maillie