Consider buying a second hand Ford car? Tired with your old ride and wants to shift to a performance level vehicle? Are you somehow limiting your budget but would still want to go for Ford? These are probably few of the questions you might get yourself thinking. If you prefer a vehicle equipped with the latest features then you might want to consider getting a used Ford Fiesta car.

There are several benefits a used Ford car can offer you. One of which is the convenience of getting it from any dealer. Most of these used cars are made available in automobile stores, online dealers and Ford direct markets.

Second advantage is its affordability. As compared to other brands, Ford cars are more reasonable. Their prices are within everybody’s means and can be considered an economical investment. Worry not because there are several dealers that offer loan schemes allowing customer to purchase the most affordable Ford model.

Along with its affordability is its ability to last for several years. Used Ford Fiesta cars are known to have excellent interior workings that could remain reliable through the years. Contrary to traditional beliefs, pre-owned Ford cars are unlikely to break down. They don’t necessarily require expensive repairs that often cause rip offs among customers.

Fuel efficiency is one advantage used Ford cars can offer you. This feature can definitely save you from added problems that usually come with the purchase. As for the fuel consumption, buyers don’t have to fret as Ford cars are fuel efficient in nature. They were manufactured in such way that they won’t rip you off with too much fuel consumption.

One more reason why most buyers are drawn to buying used Ford cars is because of its appealing exterior design. Its sleek exterior definitely adds up to this vehicle’s overall quality.

Some of the car owners are still torn between buying a brand new car or a used Ford Fiesta. Although both share the same technical and mechanical details, each still offers their own advantages and disadvantages.

There are a wide range of used Ford cars made available for your personal selection. Take for instance Ford Fiesta 1.6. This Ford model comes with leather steering wheel and gear knobs, front fog lights, driver and passenger airbags, remote central locking and other features typical among Ford vehicles. Price range is usually from £15,200 to £16,000 which makes it one of the most affordable Ford models.

Ford Fiesta 1.4 shares the same technical details with that of Ford Fiesta 1.6. It uses petrol for its fuel and has a manual transmission. For detailed engineering, there are several online sites that you can provide you additional information.

Comparing the features of all Ford Fiesta models across all brands can help you pick your ideal vehicle. Check on the upgraded features as well as the technical details of these used Ford Fiesta cars. It is important that you get hold of a quality vehicle paired with quality services.

Source by Daniel Stanley

In the car sales arena Key Performance Indicators (KPI’s) are King: every sales statistic possible is monitored, from customer visits, test drives, sales, deliveries and finance penetration etc and now customer satisfaction. These KPI’s are benchmarked to provide an industry/dealer standard of performance.

It is believed that each KPI has a correlative effect on each other, in that the more people you see, the more you test drive, the more you sell: it is as they sales people say ‘a numbers game.’

Now we believe that we can reverse the algorithm and make KPI’s do the work. By delivering exemplary customer service, a customer becomes a net promoter, advertisement and an advocate for the company.

All we have to do is sit back and wait for the satisfied customers or ‘Net Promoters’ to drive the new customers, soon to satisfied and be transformed into promoters, into our businesses and reap what has been sowed.

A perfect self sustaining and scalable business model or have the sales people been sold a lemon?

What is Net Promoter Score?

In recent years there has been an upsurge in the use of Customer Satisfaction Surveys and the reliance upon the’ Net Promoter Score (NPS)’ – none more so than in automotive manufacturers and retailers.

NPS is a question within a Customer Satisfaction Survey, where the customer is asked to rate on a numerical scale of 0-10 how likely they would be to recommend the retailer to someone else.

The resultant score is applied to the following three categories:

· Score of 9-10 Promoters – those who will actively recommend the retailer

· Score of 7-8 Passive – satisfied customers but ambivalent about recommending

· Score of 0-6 Detractors – unhappy customers actively dissuading others

The Theory

At face value, NPS serves as a more pertinent barometer of customer service levels in that the customer is not just completely satisfied but so elated that they will sing the praises of the retailer at every opportunity.

However it has become relied upon as a Key Economic Indicator of the future financial health of the organisation and an aid to the prediction of future sales.

In essence NPS is a ‘rebranding’ of a theory long since expounded by economists in which certain Key data such as employment statistics have a ‘procyclic’ correlation with the wider financial health of a country. Simply put, if a country is creating jobs then there will be an increase in personal spending which will be reflected in retail sales.

Three problems:

1. The issue with NPS, at least within the automotive retail sector is the tendency to manipulate the statistics.

Employees have been coached in how to ask, persuade or even incentivise customers to ‘tick’ the 9 or 10 box in an effort to mask any real or underlying ‘service’ issues and keep the employee and retailer out of the critical view of the manufacturer.

2. Even if the retailer does give outstanding service and the delighted customer does genuinely and voluntarily ‘tick’ 10, is there really a correlation with increased future sales?

It is fair to conclude that a 10 on NPS cannot in good conscience be compared in terms of its value as an indicator to the creation of an additional job in the market place. There is simply no predictive evidence to demonstrate the relationship, as opposed to the straight forward algorithm of a person earns money, they spend money therefore retail sales increase.

3. Lastly, why is there no correlative evidence or any evidence for that matter? Instead we as the prospective customer ‘how they heard about us?’ and then provide them with a drop down list of options.

Surely we would want to apply a more technical approach as utilised in Google + for example or other social networks, where through the power of technology the relationship between customers is apparent.

Solution

Get back to basics.

Let’s forget for a moment the tangible benefit of NPS or not as the case maybe and consider the original premise behind automotive sales.

It used to be said that a retailer could earn more profit from a customer over the three years after buying their car than was realised from the original sale.

Therefore, the focus should be not on who the customer can recommend the retailer to, but how frequently they themselves return to the retailer.

The good news is we have the capability and relatively simple technology to measure real customer loyalty and harness the data as a real Key Economic Indicator.

Nowhere to hide

Perhaps obviously the introduction of ‘loyalty cards’ would electronically track customer behaviour and reward them for it, but for reasons unknown it has not yet made it into dealer groups. Nevertheless, there is a more rudimentary solution.

1. We downloaded the vehicle sales data for a given year and filtered the information to include the purchase date, customer name, vehicle registration number and net profit.

2. We cross matched that data with that of the three years post purchase to determine if and when the customers returned to buy again.

3. We then cross matched the data with the service and parts department to indicate how frequently the customers patronised the businesses.

Results

If the retailer is brave enough they could contact those customers that didn’t ever return after their first visit and ask them why, to gain real insight to customer service.

However, the results from running this experiment with several retailers, who will of course remain nameless, has been nothing short of shocking.

There is no doubting their determination and ability to gain new customers and sell plenty of cars, hours, parts and finance but they undoubtedly make it hard work for themselves.

But in that regard they are a one trick sales pony and would be best advised to focus a proportion of their efforts in learning and training about customer behaviour and retention.

The Mystery of KPI’s

Source by Philip Harmer

New cars are very expensive here in Peru, due to customs and taxes. The average Peruvian can’t afford a car and even having a driver’s license is not common. Of those that can afford cars, most buy used cars that have been imported from Japan. After the cars arrive here, they are converted from right hand drive to left hand drive. If it is an experienced converter, they do a really good job, and at first look you would never know that it had been converted. There is a big business in these cars in Tacna, a city in Southern Peru near the border with Chile, where there is an ocean port.

I bought my first car here in Arequipa, over three years ago, and it was not a good experience. Due to improper import documents, it took six months before I could get it licensed and was able to drive it. It was a 4×4 Nissan station wagon, but was not made for the rough off highway driving that we need to do here in Cotahuasi. After endless repairs, I finally decided to get different vehicle, as I needed something better for my adventure travel business. I talked to Lucho, whose family has become my family here, and he gave me lots of advice.

First of all, in spite of how important tourism is to Peru, taking advantage of gringos is kind of a national pastime here. Lucho protects me like a kid brother, even though I think I am older than he is. He also used to be a policeman, so has lots of experiential wisdom to draw on. He gave me detailed instructions on what to do and not do in Tacna. Most of the cars are sold in a special area called Ceticos, which is a reduced duty import zone. It looks like a low budget used car mall, with probably 40 or 50 dealers selling cars.

Knowing that I would pay more for the same car than a Peruvian would, I had wanted a Peruvian friend to go with me to do the negotiating. However, no one was able to go with me last week, when I needed to go. I had sold my old car in Arequipa on Monday afternoon, and left on the bus that night for the six-hour ride to Tacna. One of my friends, Hector, said he could help me but only for one day. I said I would spend Tuesday and Wednesday looking, and if I found something suitable, I would call him and he would take the Wednesday night bus, to help me on Thursday. It wasn’t an ideal situation but Lucho told me that mid-week was the best and safest time to buy a car there, it is too crowded and not safe on weekends. Checks are not commonly use here so that meant I would be paying cash.

Because of this, many large transactions are done at banks. Lucho told me to take the seller to my bank, give them the money there, and sign the papers there, so that I wouldn’t be walking around with over $10,000 in my pocket. He also told me to ignore anyone who tried to talk to me, help me, or asked me to help them. He warned me to be careful that no one bumped into me or touched me in the bank, because they do that “accidentally” and then put a mark on your back. When you go out of the bank, an accomplice sees the mark and knows that you are carrying a lot of cash. They will then follow you until they get the opportunity to rob you.

I arrived in Tacna at about 4:30 am; fortunately, we were allowed to sleep in the bus until a more reasonable hour in the morning. I finally gave up trying to sleep at about 6:00 and went and found a nearby hostel. They said they would hold my bag until I returned in the evening to check in, so I didn’t have to pay an extra day’s room charge. There were no restaurants around, so I went back to the bus terminal and had breakfast, before I went to Ceticos.

There have been some changes in the import laws so there are less vehicles being brought into Peru than there used to be, but there were still hundreds of cars, pickups and vans surrounding the large warehouse like buildings in Ceticos. The conversions are done there as well, which only is feasible because they are able to buy the cars so cheaply, and labor is also very cheap here in Peru. One factor made it easier for me; I knew exactly what vehicle I was looking for – a Toyota Hi-Ace van, 4-wheel drive and manual transmission. Most of the combis (small van bus service) are Hi-Aces and they are all manual shift; all I needed to do was find a 4×4 like one I had seen here in Cotahuasi.

When we left Japan, 20 years ago, almost all vehicles sold there were still stick shift, very few automatics. However in the last 10 years, automatics have become much more popular there as well, probably due to the almost universal use of cell phones. I found a number of beautiful Hi-Ace vans, with nice seats for 8 people, but most were automatics and none were four-wheel drive. The Town-Ace is a little bit smaller but I looked for them as well, same problem. I found one 4×4 van but it was a Mitsubishi and automatic, and it was too expensive. I finally started looking at small SUVs like the 4Runner and Pathfinder, but they too were only automatics. They also had a few Land Cruisers, but they were close to $20,000. One salesman said a friend of his, who was a notary public, had a manual 4Runner for sale, but it was back in the city, about 10 minutes away.

Remembering Lucho’s advice, I declined his offer to take me to see it. I did ride with him and his co-worker all over Ceticos while he tried to find me one, as well as the phone number of his friend’s office, so we could call him. During this time we picked up another friend of his, who said he knew of one for sale in the city as well, and they wanted to take me there to see that one. Finally after not finding anything in Ceticos, I nervously agreed to go look at the ones in the city, as they seemed like nice guys and were trying so hard to find a vehicle for me.

I had second (make that fifth or sixth) thoughts when we picked up a fourth young man (he was related to one of the owners) in Tacna, and I still hadn’t seen any vehicles there. After driving all over, away from the center of town, I was really getting nervous, and was thinking about jumping out of the car if I saw a policeman, we finally arrived to where one of the trucks was supposed to be. Another five minutes later, someone brought out a very trashed 4Runner that they wanted $10,000 for, and it had an automatic! Next we went to the notary public’s office. He had sold the one they wanted to show me, but had a newer one for sale for $19,000. I said it was nice but too expensive, and also it was an automatic. Then they wanted to show me another one somewhere and I said no, “Take me back to Ceticos!” After wasting a couple of hours, and 10 soles for gasoline that they asked me to pay for, I was glad to be safely back in Ceticos, where I looked at the remaining places I had not been to before.

There was not a 4×4 manual van to be found at any of the sellers, and I was about ready to give up and go back to the city. First I decided to look at the Mitsubishi again and see if they might have anything cheaper. It turned out that I had misunderstood the price and it was within my budget. Using my best negotiating tactics, I managed to get the price down a thousand dollars, but it was probably still more than a Peruvian would have had to pay. I really needed to get a vehicle so decided to buy it, even though it was an automatic. The whole next day was spent doing the paperwork, getting my money from the U.S., transferring the money, and getting some minor repairs done on the van. The paperwork had to be done by a notary public, the one the seller used was the same on that I had been to the day before! Fortunately Hector made it to Tacna in the morning to help with all that, and make sure everything was correct.

We got the required permission to drive it back to Arequipa without registration, and at 7:30 pm we were finally ready to leave. We grabbed some roast chicken and fries, our first meal since breakfast, picked up my bag at the hotel and headed off for Arequipa. We still had to go through the customs checkpoint but Hector handled everything there, and within 30 minutes we were on our way again. As we went through one small town, I saw a policeman standing near the road and a sign that said, “Control”. I asked Hector if we needed to stop and he said no, so we drove by. About an hour and a half later as we were going through a tollbooth, a policeman waved us over to the side of the road. I showed him the permission papers and he said we needed to go back about 60 miles to the control point to get them stamped. It was getting late and I didn’t want to waste the fuel, so asked if there was any way we could avoid going back. He took me in the building, stamped the papers and said we could continue!

We arrived at Hector’s place, where I park my car when in Arequipa, at 2:00 am, tired but thankful for a successful trip. The next day, after spending a few hours waiting and standing in lines, the registration paperwork was all submitted and now I just have to wait 10 days to get the title, and then a couple days more to get the license plates. Then I can drive my car!

Source by Vic Hanson

When the economic climate is in a state of recession and unemployment is rising, it only makes sense to starting looking for an at home business. If you have your own business, you don’t have to depend upon having an employer to earn money. You can be your own boss and set your own hours.

And one business that is not going away anytime soon is the used car business. People have been making money buying and selling cars ever since the automobile was invented. The used car business is a ready made market with plenty of demand for low cost, reliable transportation. In today’s modern society, transportation is a must, no matter how you look at it. People need transportation. This means there’s always going to be an in-demand market for cars. And having a business where there is a definite market is the first thing you look for when considering running your own business.

One way to earn money selling used cars is outlined in Stephen Hobbs’ e-book The Lazy Way to Buy and Sell Cars for Profit. But, does his method of marketing really work? How difficult is it to buy and sell cars for profit? Do you need a license, and can you do this out of your home?

The answer to these questions – and many more – are all contained in Stephen’s e-book. In the book Stephen sets out to destroy some of the myths around this business that has kept others from even attempting it. You can set up a profitable home-based business without having to obtain a dealer’s license.

“You don’t need to get a car dealers license unless you want to and getting one suits what you want to do with this,” Stephen points out. He suggests that you start out small. And he reveals a completely legal way for you to buy and sell cars for profit while retaining all the advantages of having a car dealers license, yet without any of the disadvantages. It’s all up to you how you want to work it.

Once you know how to deal with sellers of used cars, you can get the price you want. Stephen’s book teaches you the secrets of negotiation. He also teaches you which cars to look for in the cars you buy and which to leave on a sellers lot. Armed with this knowledge, you will soon become an expert on what cars are in demand and will sell for a premium profit, and what cars to stay away from. Having this knowledge is key to becoming successful in this business.

If you are looking for a business that you can be up and running with in a relatively short time period, buying and selling cars is something you will want to seriously consider. With over 150 pages of no-fluff realistic content, Stephen’s book will help shorten the time frame between buying your first used car and closing a sale with a ready-made buyer. You will soon learn what others have already learned, that “consistent demand makes this the perfect recession proof business.”

Source by Thomas Eliot

At government auto auctions you will find great deals on hundreds of cars. The cars include those owned and no longer used by government agencies as well as those cars seized under certain forfeiture and seizure laws. Every week hundreds of cars with starting prices of $200 are available including models from Mitsubishi, Toyota, Cadillac, BMW, Ford, GM, Nissan, Honda, Chrysler, Lexus and others.

The government’s eagerness to quickly sell off its car inventory is an advantage that cannot (or at least should not) be overlooked by any serious car buyer looking for a great deal. Fortunately for buyers, the goal of the government is to dispose of the vehicles it no longer needs as quickly as possible at almost any price. Anything is better than storage and maintenance expenses. Like most things in life, however, when buying a car at a government auto auction, there are disadvantages as well as advantages. Below are some of the disadvantages.

1. Selling Terms – Auctioned cars are all sold “as is.” After buying one, there is no opportunity to complain about its condition, to exchange it or to ask for a refund. Therefore, as when buying any used car, take the time to inspect the vehicle’s condition as much as possible and learn as much about the vehicles that you are interested in before you go to the auction.

2. Intimidating – When you attend your first government vehicle auction, it may seem intimidating, However, as with most endeavors, those feelings diminish with each additional visit. It may be worthwhile to attend one or two practice auctions to become comfortable with the process. You may also pick up valuable information concerning price and condition before attending by keeping track of on-line car auctions.

3. Time – Searching for the government car auction in your area, registration, preliminary checking, attendance, and getting all the necessary paperwork done after purchase may take up to a few weeks. Again a practice run or two may help streamline things for you.

4. Pressure – Unlike buying a car through a private party or dealer, there is not a lot of time to consider all the facets of the deal. You must often fly by the seat of your pants, make quick decisions and hope for the best. Gathering as much information as possible in advance concerning the auction process and the cars that you are interested in bidding on is key.

5. Vehicle Inspection – While most government auctions provide an opportunity to make a visual inspection of the cars for sale, you are not going to have an opportunity to take it to your mechanic for a comprehensive inspection of the mechanical parts. You can offset some of this concern by (a) bringing a knowledgeable mechanic with you or (b) having someone available at home who can get a history report of the car using its Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

As always, the more information you have the better. Arm yourself with good information before you head out to the auctions and you’ll find lots of good deals at government auto auctions.

Source by Tom Garcin

When many vehicle owners need car, truck, van, RV, or jeep parts, they usually turn to their local junkyard. Many of these junk yards have a pick and pull policy. Meaning, you can buy the part for cheap, but you must find that part yourself and remove it from the vehicle in question. Although it sounds like a lot of work, it is a great way to find cheap auto parts. Another way is visiting Craigslist.org. In fact, which is the best approach?

Unfortunately, not all junkyards in the United States sell used car parts. This is unfortunate, as these pick and pull yards have shown us that even the oldest cars and those in the worst shape still have salvageable parts. If you do not have access to one of these auto establishments, it is best to visit Craigslist.org. To get started, select your state and then the nearest city. Browse or search the website to find car, truck, van, RV, or jeep parts.

One of the many benefits to using Craigslist to find cheap car accessories is the search function. You don’t have to spend hours sifting through a junkyard to find what you need. Instead, you sit at home on your computer and perform a search. To find the best deals and what you need, search with targeted phrases. Search with the make, model, or part you need. For example, Honda Civic fenders, Mercedes hubcaps, Geo Tracker door, Dodge Ram tailgate, and so forth.

At most pick and pull auto yards, you are charged a set price for each part. This is good if you only need one or two items. However, many buyers want to have an entire junk car on hand for parts in the future. At an established auto yard, this can cost you thousands of dollars or more. On Craigslist.org you are likely to find better prices. You may get a junk car for as little as $100! These cars don’t run and the seller doesn’t want to bother with needed repairs, so they sell the vehicle as a junk car and sell it for next to nothing. The only downside is you may need to rent or borrow a car trailer to tow it home.

Source by Adnan Masood

In my experience, autocross can be a very fun and exciting sport. I have participated in several events in my local area. I found the hobby to be very addictive as well.

Out of all my other hobbies, I think this one is the best “bang for the buck” as far as thrills go with your car. Everybody can participate. Every car (some clubs have exceptions to this though like no SUV’s, no Trucks) can race. The nice thing about this kind of race is that you are competing against others in your class usually defined by the SCCA, however, you are on the course alone so there is minimal chance of hitting other cars.

The hardest part about autocross (aside from learning how to race) in my opinion is finding the right car. Sure, you can use a daily driver, but that is not recommended if you are going to participate in several events a year. Autocross can create wear on the tires and other components very quickly and can get expensive very fast. I would recommend to get a vehicle that you can use for autocross. This can be a “trailer car” or a car that you can still drive on the road, but use only for this hobby.

There are 4 key components to consider when selecting a car for autocross:

1) What type of car to get

2) The Price of the car

3) The overall condition of the vehicle (if used)

4) Aftermarket upgrades/modifications

WHAT TYPE OF CAR TO GET FOR AUTOCROSS:

For autocross racing, some people would assume that the car has to be very powerful, small, 2 doors and modified. This is not entirely accurate. While that type of car would be nice, it is not required to be competitive in autocross.

Remember that most autocross events and clubs have the cars grouped in to some sort of class. The club I participate with follow the SCCA Class guidelines. The classes help group the cars so the same “level” of vehicles can remain competitive within each class.

This is done to avoid the “biggest and fastest is best” state of thought. It would be unfair to put a heavily modified Porsche GT3 up against a stock Ford Focus. This is why they do that.

So, to pick the right car for autocross, you would probably want a coupe or convertible FIRST if possible. Sedans can work well too, but some sedans are not geared for modifications, although, the sport sedans of today are really starting to take over.

Manual transmission would be recommended, however, if you have an automatic that is OK too. You may want to consider trading it for a manual in the future to remain competitive. Again, there are still “sport shift” type automatics out there that are getting better and better each day.

Ideally, you would also want a rear-wheel drive car for autocross. RWD cars typically provide better control and handling in most cases. I know some enthusiasts out there will disagree with me, but that’s OK. On the other hand, I have used several front-wheel drive cars that run with the best of them.

PRICE:

The price of buying a car for autocross is always the factor for me. I, like many others, cannot afford an expensive vehicle for autocross. There are, however, those that can afford it and price is still something for them to consider.

The $0-$5000 range:

This is the range most of us beginners want to start. Of course, free is GOOD, but consider the 3rd component (overall condition) when this option comes to mind. Several cars that can perform well and have a lot of upgradable options are the following:

1989-1997 Mazda Miata – Very nice power to weight ratio. It is VERY popular at autocross. 1979-1991 Mazda RX7 – Fast small car, handles well. Many upgrades available. 1989-1998 Nissan 240sx – Several aftermarket upgrades, handles very well. 1990-1999 BMW 3 Series – Very versatile car. You can find very nice models in this range now. 1988-2000 Honda Civic/CRX – I have seen several models compete well in autocross. 1984-1999 Toyota MR2 – Low center of gravity, great performance, mid engine. 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon – Many upgrades, some models Turbo AWD. 2000-2007 Ford Focus – Very competitive cars. SVT models available in price range. 1997-2003 VW Golf – Hatchbacks always like autocross. VR6 models available in range. 1990-1999 Acura Integra – Like the Civic, very competitive with many upgrades out there.

There may be a few more cars that I missed that fall under this price range. The method I use to hunt for cars can vary depending on the type I am looking for. I will use local classified ads, Craigslist. I will also use the bigger car searches and expand my general “hunting” area. I have successfully found great cars using VEHIX, AutoTrader as well as Government Auction Sites.

But what about the autocross cars above the $5000 range? Well, I am glad you are think that because I am about to list them below.

If you have some money to work with and want to get something newer, you can consider the following cars:

The $5,001-$20,000 range:

This range can include newer cars as well as pre-owned cars that are no more than a few years old. Remember, cars usually depreciate very fast, so as the years go by, some of the newer cars can be within reach for less money and are great for autocross. The cars below come to mind in this range:

1998-Current Mazda MX-5 – Still same basic car, but more power as they got newer. 2003-Current VW Golf – Even more modified than the previous versions, compete well. 1992-1997 Mazda RX7 – 3rd Gen is twin-turbo and can compete in autocross. 1992-2006 BMW M3 – M3’s are designed for racing. Some newer models will fall in this range. 1998-2003 BMW M5 – M5’s are very powerful and compete in their class well. 1994-Current Ford Mustang/Cobra – Very versatile car. Competes well in class. 1994-2002 Camaro/Firebird – Competes well in class. Many autocross upgrades. 2007-Current Mazda Mazdaspeed3 – Turbo, hatchback, competes well in autocross. 2003-2008 Nissan 350z – Great autocross car, very popular on the track. Special Autocross Kit cars such as the V6 Stalker fall in this range as well.

Now, this price range can vary in vehicles. A lot of these cars are still new and may require loans to purchase them.

The $20,001 spectrum will consist of some of the current-day models as well as the obvious “super cars” we all respect such as the Corvette, Viper, Porsche, Ferrari, Lotus and others. I will not include a list for those because if you are buying one of those for an autocross car, you did your research.

OVERALL CONDITION OF THE VEHICLE (USED):

When buying a second car for autocross, treat it like when you are buying your daily driver car. You want the car to be relatively free of major problems. Autocross racing can put stress on the car’s frame, the suspension, the brakes, the tire and the overall body of the car.

You want to be sure that the car has not been in any major accidents. Frame repair or frame damage can be very dangerous mixture when you autocross. That is the MOST important thing to check for when buying a car for autocross. I have experienced and used the service by Experian called AutoCheck. They offer an unlimited number of VIN checks for one of their service options and the price is way better than the other services out there. I have used it when shopping and comes in very handy when you are checking the history of a vehicle.

The next important item to check on the car is major component problems such as smoke coming out of the back of the exhaust, major oil leaks (small leaks are expected on most used cars) slight/major overheating of the engine. Autocross is outside and you push the car to the limit. You want the major components to be in the best shape they can be. The mentioned problems can leave you stranded at the track if you do not look out for them.

I usually have some expectation to do minor repair or preventive repairs on my vehicles when I am buying to autocross them. As I stated above, small oil/fluid leaks are “OK” and can usually be fixed very easily. Small leaks tell us that the car is just used and may not be suffering from the leak as a result. Large/major leaks tell us the car may have been neglected by the previous owner and may carry residual problems unseen at the moment. When looking at a car, start it up, drive it around with the A/C engaged (even if it doesn’t work). When you are finished with the test drive, leave it idling while you walk around the car continuing to inspect it. If the car has an overheating problem, often this is the time it will show. This tip has helped me avoid several beautiful autocross cars that had an overheating problem.

Belts and hoses are my most frequent “preventive” repair I do, even if they are not a problem. It is always best to know when an important component has been replaced rather than to “guess” and trust the previous owner. Water pumps, too, fall in this category sometimes.

One thing people always check when buying a used car are the tires. Yes, this is important for an autocross car, but not to see how “good” the tires are, but to see if the car needs an alignment. Autocross is about handling and you need to be sure the car’s stock “handling” ability is where it should be.

Why not worry about the tires? Well, tires should be one thing to consider buying for your autocross car to begin with, so the existing tires should be removed anyway. Tires are probably the most bought wear item an autocross member will buy. A lot of autocross racers will bring a set of tires for racing, one for driving home (those who do not use a trailer) and some will even bring spares for the racing tires. This is so common that Tire Rack offers tires just for autocross. I have used them and they are the best place to get tires for this.

AFTERMARKET MODIFICATIONS FOR AUTOCROSS:

If you ever look into the aftermarket world of the auto industry, you know that there are literally thousands of places to look and buy. I will list a few spots that most people do not think to look, but surprisingly have things for the autocross fans.

First and foremost, autocross cars do NOT always need major upgrades to be competitive. A driver can use a stock vehicle and compete against fellow stock vehicles and remain competitive. Once you start to modify or upgrade heavily, you may start to move into different classes and compete with other cars that are equally modified. Keep that in mind when you want to change something.

Usually, I say modify the easy things first: Intake, exhaust and general tune ups. Most autocross drivers do not go far from that. These should be the first things you try to upgrade while you participate in autocross to get the most performance out of your vehicle.

If you decide to go further to be more competitive, my next recommendation would be suspension and body roll modifications. Please remember, certain upgrades in this area may change your class. Be sure to check your club or groups rules with these modifications.

Usually, the fastest upgrade to an autocross car would be front and rear strut tower bars/braces. They are usually inexpensive to buy and easy to install. They are also very modular meaning that when you buy these, they will work with other suspension components in place (usually). This modification helps stiffen the car’s suspension and frame and helps with cornering.

The next modification recommendation would then be the front and rear sway bars and links. These parts also help the body roll while cornering and handling and can sometimes be modular to the suspension system as a whole.

The final suspension upgrade is usually the most expensive: The struts (shocks/springs). This upgrade usually works well with the above items, but ads more stiffness, more response to the handling and sometimes lower the car overall for a lower center of gravity.

Once you have modified the entire suspension, my next recommendation would be to upgrade the brakes (at least the pads). This will help your stopping ability for those moments where a tap of the brake is needed during a lap. Please keep in mind that high performance brake pads usually wear much quicker than OEM.

One of the last things I recommend to upgrade is the tires. Now, I’m not saying that you should not FIRST buy new tires when you autocross, but I am saying not to UPGRADE them to an autocross/race tire just yet. Most autocross enthusiasts will tell you to get used to the stock/regular tires on your car first.

Once you get used to stock type tires, modifying them to a race tire or softer tire will actually improve your lap times (that’s the theory anyway).

One last note. I recommend replacing the fluids in your car with as many synthetics as you can. Synthetic fluids have higher heat resistance and can take the intense moments you will be putting on the car during the autocross laps.

Source by Shaun Putnam

Garage insurance is a much misunderstood policy form. Many professional insurance agents are confused about exactly when to use it and more importantly exactly how. You can use a garage liability policy to protect a used car dealer, often referred to as dealer’s insurance, or you can use this same form to protect an automotive repair shop or to set up body shop insurance. The trick is to know the symbols. If you own a car dealership or an automotive repair shop and are purchasing insurance for your business, it is advisable that you find an agent who specializes in the garage insurance form to help you with this purchase so you don’t end up with the wrong form and perhaps find yourself without coverage after a large loss.

As I mentioned earlier, both types of businesses, auto repair and or body shops and used car dealers both need the garage policy. But exactly what kind of operations are covered in these policies is driven by the symbols shown on the policy. This is very important. If your business is automotive repair or body work but your policy is set up with symbols that would apply to a car dealership, you could find yourself without coverage in the event of a liability loss.

 

So how do you know if you have the correct symbols and thus the correct form? Pull out your garage policy and look at the first page.   Beside each type of coverage, usually to the left, there will be a least one two digit number between 21 and 31. These symbols will describe what is protected by the coverage shown beside that symbol. Here is a list of the most common symbols and what each one protects:

Symbol 21                 Any auto

Symbol 22                 All owned autos

Symbol 23                 Owned private passenger autos only

Symbol 24                 Owned autos other than private passenger

Symbol 25                 Owned autos subject to no fault laws

Symbol 26                 Owned autos subject to Uninsured Motorists law

Symbol 27                 Specifically described autos

Symbol 28                 Hired autos only

Symbol 29                 Non-Owned autos used in the Garage Business

Symbol 30                 Autos Left for Service/Repair/Storage

Symbol 31                 Autos on Consignment

 

As you have probably figured out, if you are an automobile dealer and you have symbol 30 on your policy, you would find yourself without coverage. So why not just put symbol 21 on all coverages? Well, since code 21 is the broadest coverage, you would have to pay more for this insurance policy and in some cases you might be purchasing insurance protection that you didn’t really need.

 

Take some time to look at your policy carefully and review the symbols for each line of coverage to make sure that they are appropriate for the work you do. If you need help with this process, consult your agent. If you agent doesn’t specialize in businesses needing garage policy, ie dealers insurance and auto repair shop insurance, then find one who does. This protection is just too important to leave up to an agent who is practicing on the job learning on your policies.

Source by Wake Clinard

Until recently, used car prices had been going through the roof. They started getting cheaper when gas headed toward $4 a gallon, and then when the credit crisis hit, and there were a lot of repos on the market, they got even cheaper. Now that gas is back down under $2, they’ve gone back up somewhat, but they’re still cheaper than a while back. Of course, “cheap” is a relative term, and one man’s bargain is another man’s extravagance. What if you need a car fast, and you only have five hundred bucks? I’d head for government auto auctions. Cars under 500 dollars are available there.

Now, don’t get me wrong. At government auto auctions, cars under 500 dollars aren’t a dime a dozen. They really aren’t even plentiful. But you stand a very good chance of finding one or two such bargains at any given government auction you attend. And, yes, I’m talking about cars that actually run and are street legal. Now, it’s probably going to be quite a it older than most cars on the street, but that’s no problem. If you’re really looking for a cheap car, you can forget about a late model one, anyway. Those will be snapped up by the dealers, and they’ll go for a lot more than 500 dollars.

That’s because they’re looking for cars that can be resold fast, which is late model cars in great condition. That’s why dealers attend government auto auctions. Cars under 500 dollars don’t interest them, because they’re going to be too old to have much of a market. But that doesn’t mean there’s anything wrong with a 500 dollar car you pick up at one of these. It will just be older than average, and probably not in tip top shape. But you can certainly find yourself a 500 dollar car that runs if you attend a few auctions.

Source by Patrick Mole

Buying a vehicle is a serious and expensive purchase, which is why you have to take your time and do an extensive research before you decide what car to buy. There are lots of things you have to take into consideration, including price, specifications, auto insurance, and payment methods. When looking to buy a car, a lot of people are faced with the dilemma of buying a used one versus a new one. Maybe a new car seems like the obvious choice, but there are some very significant benefits of buying a used car, related to price, maintenance and insurance, which should be taken into account by everyone who believes that new vehicles are the better option.

The main, and most obvious advantage of choosing a used car over a new one is the lower price tag. If you decide to buy a used one, you can get a pretty good model with great performances, at a very low price. For example, you could buy a used sports car that cost more than $80,000 a couple of years ago, when it was new, for as little as $40,000. This is because new cars lose much of their value the minute they leave the dealership.

Talking about depreciation, used cars are not affected by it as much as new ones are. New cars lose most of their value during the first two or three years. If you buy a used car, you don’t have to worry about it losing much of its value, since it already depreciated a lot when it was first sold as a new vehicle. This way, when you decide to sell the used car after a couple of years, you will be able to sell it at a price that will be pretty similar to the price you had bought it at.

Another reason why you should consider getting a used cars is the lower registration fee. DMV’s charge less for registering cars that are more than five years old, and you can save a couple of hundreds of dollars a year that way. Also, used cars are not subject to sales tax, which, for new cars, is as much as 7% of the purchase price.

Lastly, insurance for used cars is cheaper compared to new cars. This is because a new car is more expensive and has a higher value, and it costs more to replace parts and repair it in case it gets damaged in a collision.

In conclusion, owning a new car does have a lot of obvious benefits, but owning a used car has its own advantages, too, and you should consider this option before making your final decision.

Source by Jordan Perch